RIB Buying Guide and advice on buying a new or used Rigid Inflatable Boat or RIB
There are hundreds of RIB manufacturers in the world and quite a number are located in and around the Solent. This introduces an element of competition, however, the market place is imperfect. The location of the dealer is important because you don't want to have to travel too far if you experience problems. While any dealer is only a telephone call away, it is almost inevitable that you will need spare parts, repairs or technical advice and friendly customer service. Therefore, a close RIB dealer or manufacturer can be very important.
We have put together this RIB buying guide with advice on many key points
for you to consider when looking for your new or used rigid inflatable
boat or RIB to buy. We have also included a Check List that you can print
out 
and
take with you when you view a RIB, it has been designed so that it is quick
and easy to use to guide you through the RIB buying process.
A RIB can be a large investment and we recommend that you obtain advice from a qualified surveyor if you are buying a used RIB. We would also recommend that you try out as many different makes of RIB as you can before you buy. The annual RIB exhibition at Cowes provides a perfect opportunity to sea trial and compare RIBs side by side.
How will you use your RIB?
Your first main decision is how will you use your RIB, for example is it primarily for leisure, racing, rescue, diving or cruising?
RIBs have advanced significantly from the utilitarian 4x4 of the sea, initially developed for rescue and military use. Today the recreational use of RIBs is well established. A RIB has massive inherent buoyancy, a low centre of gravity, and a high power to weight ratio has made today's RIBs thoroughbreds of the sea. The RIB can be a fast and very safe boat, when properly handled, and is seen in many guises as harbour runabouts, rescue lifeboats, luxury tenders on super yachts, adventure craft on cruise liners, race and cruise boats.
RIBs can be divided into the following four broad categories of usage.
Rescue, Commercial and Military RIB
Small RIB are often used by sailing clubs as safety boats and the RNLI use larger RIB fitted out with twin outboards and self righting gear as lifeboats.
Commercial RIB are generally used as pilot boats and by the maritime protection agencies. Many commercial RIB have a wheelhouse.
Military RIB are used by the marines and other waterborne forces. Some military RIB can be recognised by the grey or olive green colour of their hull and tubes. You may spot the odd black special services.
Diving RIB
Divers usually sit on the inflatable tubes, including the Cox on some smaller models, leaving plenty of deck space for diving equipment. A single helm console, jockey seat and bottle rack are normal. The tubes are set close to the waterline and in some cases the hull can be flooded to provide maximum stability at rest.
Sports and Cruising RIB
Moulded consoles and upholstered seating, stowage lockers, some even have a bathing ladder and shower facility. A Cruising RIB is quite capable of an English Channel crossing with a range up to 120 miles. Often with a minimum of four seats and modern electronics packages. Some of the larger RIBs made by custom manufacturers include cabins as an option.
Racing RIB
High performance RIBs with deep V hulls and sometimes stepped hulls. Normally they have only two seats. These RIBs are capable of speeds in excess of 100 mph but more typically 50 to 70 mph. Special designs with lightweight but strong construction, perhaps using Kevlar composite material in the build.
Your Personal Criteria for your RIB
If you are buying a new RIB and you have specific requirements that are important to you then ensure that these are included in the contract. For example if you need a minimum speed of 40 knots, then agree this in writing.
Safety First and the Recreational Craft Directive (RCD)
The European Union introduced the Recreational Craft Directive (RCD) in 1996 that sets minimum standards that new boats, including RIBs have to meet. It requires manufactures of recreational RIBs between 2.5m and 24m built in the EU or imported into the EU after 16 June 1998 to categorise their RIBs into the following four categories. These provide you with a good indication of the RIBs capabilities
From a consumer point of view it is a step in the right direction regards to safety, as by law RIB builders have to declare to conform to the criteria. This gives you a yardstick against which to measure the suitability of a new RIB against your own requirements. It can only give you a guide and remember that these are minimum standards, but if you are considering two seemingly similar RIBs each having different RCD categories, it opens up a series of questions to put to manufacturers to lead you towards the RIB that really should fulfil your needs.
However, don't be fooled into a false sense of security by this. Unless your craft has been coded (ie been assessed by the MCA for commercial use) the CE plate is no guarantee that it is 100% safe for that category. Although someone's name will be on the declaration of conformity to state that it is this is of little comfort if someone has been seriously injured or worse.
The RCD does not apply to manufactures of commercial RIBs. Manufactures of commercial RIBs have to comply with many other regulations, in particular SOLAS and Lloyd's Register of Shipping .
It requires manufactures of recreational RIBs between 2.5m and 24m to categorise their RIBs into the following four categories. These provide you with a good indication of the RIBs capabilities.
A - Ocean: Designed for extended voyages where conditions may exceed wind force F8 (Beaufort scale) and significant wave heights of 4m and above, and the vessel largely self-sufficient.
B - Offshore: Designed for offshore voyages where conditions up to and including wind force F8 and significant wave heights up to and including 4m may be experienced.
C - Inshore: Designed for voyages in coastal waters, large bays, estuaries, lakes and rivers where conditions up to and including wind force F6 and significant wave heights up to and including 2m may be experienced.
D - Sheltered Waters: Designed for voyages on small lakes, rivers and canals where conditions up to and including wind force F4 and significant wave heights up to and including 0.5m may be experienced.
RIB builders who meet the RCD will have two identification plates attached on the RIB with the following information:
Hull Identification with: Country of manufacture Unique serial number Year of production Model |
RIB Builder's Plate with: Manufacturer's name CE Marking Boat design category Manufacturer's maximum recommended load Number of persons recommended to be carried |
A few more legal matters
On 1 July 2002, some new regulations came into force that directly affect pleasure RIB users. These regulations are part of Chapter V of the International Convention for the Safety of Life at Sea (SOLAS V). SOLAS V applies to RIB users of even small privately owned RIBs. If you are involved in a boating accident and it is subsequently shown that you have not applied the following basic principles, you could be prosecuted.
There is no need to register your RIB if you keep and use it in UK waters. However, many RIB owners choose to. For overseas use it must be registered. It must also be registered if it's company owned or subject to a marine mortgage. For more info contact the Register of British Shipping in Cardiff.
RIBs kept on or visiting canals (British Waterways), rivers (Environment Agency) and broads (Broads Authority) must have a licence issued by the relevant authority. RIBs on British Waterways or Environment Agency waterways have to conform to the Boat Safety Scheme.
Once you have decided how you will use your RIB, it is necessary to limit your search to RIBs that are suitable. In particular if you wish to use your RIB for heavy weather offshore passages at night, then you should limit your search to category A or B RIBs.
Your second main decision is to decide your budget. It is important to also budget for additional items, for example a chart plotter, fish finder or depth sounder, compass, trailer, etc.
RIB Insurance
It is essential to insure your RIB for your own piece of mind; often it is also a legal/contractual requirement of many marinas. Click here to view a guide to marine insurance for your RIB.
RIB Sea Trial
A sea trial is essential. If you are buying a new RIB and your prospective RIB has not yet been built, then ensure you sea trial the same make and model, with the same engine. If you are buying a used RIB, then ensure you sea trial the actual RIB that you are considering buying.
Ideally arrange a sea trial in conditions that you are likely to use the RIB in yourself.
In any event make sure that you are comfortable with the owner's knowledge and attitude towards safety. Some years ago I sea trialled a RIB at the Southampton Boat Show and the driver had to call use his mobile to call for assistance because the engine had ran out of petrol!
What to Look For - Key Parts of a RIB
Construction of a GRP RIB hull
The most common material used for the construction of the RIB superstructure is Glass Reinforced Plastic or GRP. A niche sector of the RIB market uses aluminium for the superstructure.
Traditional lay ups are achieved by over lapping chop strand mats (CSM) and stitched or roven wovings at the keel giving a double thickness. This gives weight at the lowest possible point in the hull acting much like a sailing keel that helps keep the boat in an upright position and strengthens the hull.
Most GRP RIBs are built in polyester resin of some type, some omit less styrene into the atmosphere and are also more user friendly to the builder but are more expensive. Isophthalic resins used in the first couple of layers of glass hugely reduce the risk of osmosis (the dreaded fibre glass disease) that is an important point if you wish to moor or berth your RIB.
Overview of key stages in the construction of a new RIB
Laying up the GRP hull of the RIB
Constructing the transom of the RIB
Stainless steel fuel tank ready for installation in the RIB
RIB hull with deck, console and seating modules fitted
RIB hull freshly removed from mould
The fit out and rigging of the RIB hull commences
Connections to stainless steel fuel tank after installation in RIBs hull
The fit out and rigging of the RIB hull commences
Finished inside view of the electronics packages fitted to the new RIB. Note the nice tidy wiring.
The tubes have been fitted to the RIB
Brand new outboard for RIB, still on the pallet
Outboard being prepared for installation on the RIB
Final pre-delivery checks being carried out on the RIB
The new custom made RIB is ready for delivery to the customer just six weeks after ordering
Launching the RIB for her first voyage
Buying a new or used RIB
Your third main decision is whether you would prefer to buy new or used. This may be decided by your budget.
Buying a new RIB
RIB Tube Material - Which material is best, Hypalon or PVC?
Most RIBs today are manufactured with Hypalon tubes, however a lot of the smaller sized RIBs aren't and the tubes are manufactured with PVC mainly to keep manufacturers and subsequently retail costs down. There are many advantages and disadvantages for both the buyer and manufacturer of Hypalon and PVC. Indeed this debate has raged for many years. We summarise the key points below from the point of view of the buyer:
• PVC has better UV resistant characteristics. This can be an advantage if you don't have a cover, or have colours that are likely to fad like red or yellow.
• PVC is more difficult to repair, as it requires more than ideal atmospheric conditions.
• Hypalon has better rub wearing characteristics.
• Hypalon is very easy to repair, in fact an emergency patch can be carried out by a competent DIY enthusiast.
When tubes are constructed, the glued faces need to be prepared by scuffing the material to ensure a strong bond. It is impossible to check by looking at a new RIB. Therefore, when you are buying a RIB check the baffles even if it is new. To do this, inflate the chamber to be tested and release the air out of the adjoining chamber and, leave for a few hours and check pressure.
Surplus glue on new ribs will not become apparent until exposed to UV light and once brown is difficult to remove so look closely. Also, check the strips that bond the tube to the hull are stuck without creases or bubbles and that the bow has sufficient bonding material.
Types of RIB Seating
It is a very important factor when choosing a RIB and one that greatly influences you and your crew's safety. Both driver and crew can take quite a pounding in heavy seas when comfort, support and correct seat position are paramount.
There are two principal types of seating used in RIBs. First, the bench seat. This is ideal for leisure use in good weather, however, bench seating is often considered less secure and comfortable when travelling at speed. Second, is the jockey style or pod seat. This is much more secure and comfortable when underway. However, it is easier to get comfortable lying across a bench seat, than it is a series of jockey seats when at rest!
Agreement for the Purchase of a new RIB
Once you have decided which make and model of RIB you wish to purchase you will need to enter into a legally binding purchase agreement. You may be asked to make stage payments as key construction milestones of your RIB are achieved. This is a quite normal, but you do need to be careful. The greatest potential disaster is the RIB builder or dealer becoming insolvent while your RIB is under construction. Even if a deposit has been paid, it is unlikely to give the purchaser any rights over a part built RIB unless precaution has been taken to ensure that this matter is taken into account in the contract.
Typical stage payments:
- 5% to 10% deposit on signing the agreement
- 30% to 35% on completion of the hull
- 40% on engine installation
- Balance on completion of acceptance sea trials
There is a standard form of agreement issued by the British Marine Federation and approved by the RYA that, as far as possible, equitably satisfies the reasonable requirements of both RIB builder and RIB purchaser. However it is important that you read the small print very carefully and if in any doubt whatsoever, take professional advice.
Delivery of your RIB
If you require the boat to be delivered fully operational for a particular date, you may choose to insist that a late delivery clause is added to the contract. You certainly will not be offered this as standard for obvious reasons but it would not be unreasonable to ask for penalty payments of a fixed amount per day in the event of the boat being delivered late without reasonable cause. We have heard of RIBs being delivered more than six months late. In the UK this will mean that you miss a session with your new RIB!
A sea trial is an important aspect of buying a new RIB and you would be well advised to ensure that the contract includes the opportunity to see the RIB in action before you settle the outstanding balance. You need to remember that the final payment is probably the only one that actually includes any profit margin for the builder, dealer or agent, so he will be very keen to get it handed over at the earliest opportunity.
The best bet is to actually visit the workshop and even see your boat being constructed, a reputable company will have no problem with this and if they do you have to ask yourself why.
Buying a Used RIB
Hull and Deck
Inspect the hull for cracks, chips and grazing, in particular along the spray rails and chines. Hairline cracks running across the beam of the hull and any longitudinal cracks are the principal elements to look out for. Either of these could indicate substantial damage. Minor grazing, small star cracks (stress) emanating from pressure points and chips in the chines may detract from the boat's appearance, but are usually superficial and require a relatively easy and inexpensive repair job.
Deck and transom damage is rare. However, points to look for are spongy decks caused by fuel or water logging. The problem will require the attention of an expert and a great deal of expense. Check the transom around its base and its bearer's knees. Minor cracks in both the base and at the top of the knees can be common, but generally do not indicate major damage.
Seating and console upholstery condition are visually easy to see, but do check the deck attachment of the console, the seat hinges and the water tightness of any integral storage areas.
Check the location of fuel tanks and battery do you really want them both located in the same deck space? One spark and perhaps a very loud bang! Inspect all fittings, pipes and breathers for signs of damage. Check out accessibility if a damaged fuel tank has to be replaced. This can be quite expensive if the design and construction has not taken this possibility into account.
RIB Tubes
Inspect the RIB buoyancy tubes for major repairs. Check for partially stuck patches as they are a good indicator of an amateur repair job and consequent hidden dangers. Such patches should be attended to as soon as possible.
Check for previous repairs to the tube attachment, usually spotted by glue stains. Pull at the fabric, to check that any gluing has been carried out properly. In particular check the seam at the bow, along each underside of the hull, the transom seams and the joining of the stern tube cones.
A lot of seams are covered by tape that can start to lift or become totally detached. While on some RIBs, the tape is purely a protective measure covering the main seam below (a little glue is all that is needed to rectify the problem) on others it is the main attachment. In the case of the latter, then this can be the beginning of the seams becoming unglued, which entails an expensive repair job.
The RIB should have a minimum of 3 independent air chambers, preferably more. To check the condition of the baffles (the divisions between the air chambers) deflate one tube at a time and inflate the other to a normal working pressure, 1.5 to 3.0 psi. Press your ear against the tube you should be able to hear any leakage of air from one chamber to another.
Engine and Steering
Click here for an overview of diesel inboards compared with petrol outboards.
An inspection by a qualified person is the ideal solution; however, if this is not always possible, we do suggest that you carry out the following checks:
Remove the cowl and inspect the engine for general condition, a clean engine often indicates a careful owner. Look for signs of salt corrosion, most importantly around the cylinder head. With the engine running check that the water pump is functioning properly, pumping a sufficient volume of water to cool the engine. Look at the strength of the tell tail jet, which will give you a good indication. Overheating can cause serious damage to the pistons and bearings as well as twisting the cylinder head.
Check for wear in the swivel bracket and engine mounts by attempting to shake the engine, RIBs put huge loads on the engine mountings and suffer from this type of deterioration if the engine has not been properly checked and fittings tightened after every trip.
Check the propeller for damage and look to see if the bottom of the 'skeg' is also damaged, usually indicating that the engine has hit something at sometime. Take the engine out of gear (with ignition switched off!) and rotate the prop slowly by hand, checking to ensure that the propeller shaft is not bent. Again with the ignition switched off or the kill-cord out, put the engine in gear and pull the starter cord or turn the propeller by hand. You should be able to feel a resistance as each piston rises to compress the air in its cylinders.
Loosen the gearbox oil drainage plug and inspect what comes out. The oil should be thick and transparent. If it is not and appears to be thinner and murky, then water contamination may have taken place and consequently damaged the gears or bearings.
Ask to see a service history. You will probably be very lucky to find one, some enthusiasts do all their own servicing and maintenance.
Steering, usually cable or hydraulic outboard engines larger than 75hp. Check the free movement of all cables, it's not uncommon for steering cables to seize. It's recommended changing them anyway on a routine basis. Not expensive but sometimes fiddly. Check condition of all fittings to steering box and engine. If hydraulic steering, check oil level and look for leaks. Move steering and check for 'play'.
Cruising Equipment
Personal choice largely dictates what equipment should be on the RIB expect that not every used RIB will come complete with all the equipment considered to be prudent to take to sea. To give you a general idea we have listed below some items that should be considered as part of the purchase of a used RIB.
Anchor and Line An anchor of a weight and type adequate to hold the boat with at least 30m (inshore), 50m (offshore) of line with 3m of chain. Bailers and Bilge Pumps Bailers or buckets and either manual, automatic or electric bilge pumps, especially on inboard engine installations.
Fire Extinguisher A fire extinguisher. Inboard engines should have an automatic fire extinguisher system installed in the engine compartment.
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Hand or Foot Pump A hand or foot pump capable of being operated below the gunwale. Paddles A minimum of two paddles. Painter/Mooring Lines Painter and mooring lines. The painter should be shorter than the length of the boat so as not to foul the propeller should it fall into the water whilst underway. Towing Points Cleats, eyes and Samson posts strong enough to tow the boat when waterlogged. |
Click here for a more detailed guide to cruising equipment for a RIB.
Trailer
Used trailers are generally in a poor condition and can sometimes seem to be more of a liability than an asset. Ensure it fits the RIB, providing sufficient support, and determine the existence and extent of rust, particularly in any box sections.
Brakes often become seized due to their frequent immersion in saltwater, so don't be put off immediately if this is the case. However, do check carefully how easily they release. Inspect the cables, making sure they appear to be good condition. Lastly, check the brakes don't scrape or bind when the trailer is being towed.
Jack up the trailer and check for play in the wheel bearings. Also spin the wheel, listening for noise from the bearings. If the bearings are noisy, then the trailer is not in a good state to tow the RIB. Always carry a spare wheel bearing when towing on roads.
Check the drawbar and hitch ensuring that the coupling bolts are tight. Apply the trailer brake and attempt to manoeuvre the hitch, checking for wear. Try to push the hitch back towards the trailer it should slide slowly with some resistance. It should not slip in easily or seize up.
Check the strap on the winch for deterioration. If there is a winch wire, then you're better off replacing it with a strap, as this is a much safer option. Inspect the winch mechanism for jammed or worn pawls.
Check that there is a light board for the trailer and that all lights are working.
Click here for a more detailed guide on how to maintain a trailer.
RIB Training
The RYA's National Powerboat Scheme is for those who use small, open powerboats for leisure or work, whether for their own sake or in connection with another activity such as sailing or rescue. Click here for more information on RIB training .
For more information on buying a new boat, see the RYA Book of Buying Your First Motor Cruiser
RYA Book of Buying your first Motor Cruiser, available from bookshops and chandleries at £12.99.
RIB Buying Guide Checklist
To help guide you through what can seem an overwhelming maze to buying a new RIB we have developed the following RIB Buying Guide Checklist:
Make .................................... Model .....
RCD Category ...
Length ........ Engine ......... Hp ........
Year ................. Asking Price ................
| Hull & Deck | Good | OK | Poor | Engine, Propeller & Steering | Good | OK | Poor | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Overall condition, in particular any signs of cracks, chips or grazing in the GRP? | What is the overall condition of the engine? | |||||||
| Is the deck solid or does it feel spongy? This is an indication of a delaminating deck, which can be expensive to repair. | Are there signs of corrosion underneath the cover? | |||||||
| Are there any signs of cracking around the transom? | How complete is the service history? | |||||||
| What is the overall condition of the console? | What condition is the propeller in? Is it worn or has it suffered serious impact damage? | |||||||
| What condition are the seats, upholstery and backrests in? Are the seats securely fixed to the deck? | Does the gearbox oil show signs of water ingress (pale creamy colour)? | |||||||
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| How much steering play is there? | ||||||||
| Are there any signs of hydraulic oil leaks? | ||||||||
| Trailer | ||||||||
| What is the overall condition of the trailer, in particular is rust evident? | ||||||||
| What condition are the wheel bearings in? These can be checked by jacking up the trailer and checking the wheel for lateral movement and also any grinding nose while rotating. | Tubes | |||||||
| What condition is the winch mechanism in? | What is the overall condition of the tubes? | |||||||
| Brakes | Are there any patches? | |||||||
| How well is the RIB supported? | Have the tubes faded? | |||||||
| Sea Trial |