Beaulieu River
Beaulieu River has been owned by Lord Montagu since 1926. In this respect the Beaulieu River is virtually unique, for the Montagu Estate owns everything, including the river bed, the foreshore, and much of the surrounding countryside. In most other rivers in the British Isles the river bed and foreshore to the High Water mark are normally Crown Property. In the case of Beaulieu this was all given away in the 13th century by King John to the monks who originally founded Beaulieu Abbey.
James Wyatt established the first shipyard in Beaulieu and launched the 500 ton Surprise in 1745, but it was the arrival of Henry Adams in 1747 and Buckler's Hard assumed the familiar appearance that it still has today, with the two long rows of cottages bordering the wide and gentle slope running down to the slipways at the water's edge. The huge open space between the cottages was once a vast timber yard, stacked high with prime, seasoning oak.
Over the next 60 years more than 50 warships were built in Beaulieu. The most famous was Nelson's favourite ship, the 64 gun Agamemnon, launched in 1781, of which the great seaman wrote "My ship is without exception the finest 64 in the service, and has the character of sailing remarkably well."
Henry Adams died in 1805 and although his two sons continued shipbuilding, by the 1830s this historic era at Buckler's Hard had ceased.
There was a brief revival during World War I, but for most of the 20th century it was a sailing centre and thanks to its owners' careful policy of conservation it has for the most part remained unspoiled.
All visitors are made welcome and well catered for, and the atmosphere is as enchanting as ever. The only problem, particularly at weekends and Bank Holidays, is that an awful lot of other people think so too and it can become very crowded!
Approaches
The delights of the Beaulieu River are well concealed from seaward by the saltings of Gull Island and the long muddy promontory of Beaulieu Spit, which dries up to 2.4m LAT and deflects the river ENE from Needs Ore Point to Lepe. The only real seaward clues to the river's existence are the masts of the moored yachts behind.
In fact, even as you get closer you might still have your doubts for the entrance is very narrow at little more than 80m wide. Though well marked in the closer approach, the best indication of its position from a distance is the line of old Coastguard cottages and the small white boat house just below them on the shore, which lies just east of the entrance.
Due to the very shallow depths over the bar sufficient rise of tide is essential and the Beaulieu River should not be approached within 2 hours either side of LWS, particularly if any swell is running.
Approaching from the east, once past the red NE Gurnard buoy it is essential to keep well clear of the shallows that extend south west from Stansore and Stone Points, which are marked with three beacons marking the eastern limit of an extensive area of seabed cables and gas pipe lines. This large area extends 1.5 miles west, well past the entrance to the Beaulieu River, south to Egypt Point and Thorness Bay on the Isle of Wight. Anchoring is prohibited anywhere within these limits.
Half a mile beyond the last beacon, a spherical yellow race buoy lies about 0.5 mile south of the entrance. The old Coastguard cottages and boathouse should be in sight and once you have the boathouse roughly in line with the western end of the cottages, you can begin to swing inshore.
The most prominent mark is the Beaulieu Spit beacon on the west side of the entrance. Note the speed limit is 5 knots.
Approaching from the west, once past the red can West Lepe buoy there are several useful spherical yellow race marks, all about 0.75 miles apart, which are useful to skirt round the shallower bulge of the Lepe Middle bank which extends nearly a mile from the northern shore, with depths along its outer edge of 4.5m LAT that soon reduce inshore to less than 2.0m LAT.
From the first race buoy continue past the Frigate mark, and then you will be able to head more north east just inside the AFN London mark and pick up the leading line, then continue east until the marks are reasonably open before turning inshore.
If you attempt to enter for the first time at night, then watch out for the race marks at night as they are unlit. However, the unlit channel beacons do have reflectors so can be picked out with a torch or searchlight.
Anchorages, moorings and berthing
There are four possible options for an overnight stay in the River: anchoring, although here you will be a long way from the pub at Buckler's Hard; picking up a vacant private mooring; lying on the piles close to Buckler's Hard; or, berthing in the Yacht Harbour at Buckler's Hard.
Due to the concentration of moorings in the upper parts of the river, anchoring is prohibited within 1 mile either side of Buckler's Hard. As the moorings extend below Exbury Point and Gin's Farm, the only realistic but very pleasant place to anchor is in the first long reach once inside the river. You can anchor anywhere along its length for which you will pay around £4. On the north or south edge of the channel there are consistent depths of between 2m and 4m LAT and the muddy shore is very steep.
Although it might seem exposed, Beaulieu Spit creates plenty of shelter except at the very top of the tide, and obviously the further west you lie the shelter is even better in the lee of the saltings that form Gull Island, which is only awash at very high Springs.
Although this reach can often seem delightfully remote, at times it can be correspondingly busy when the weekend rush for a pint at the Master Builder's begins.
Landing is possible at the slipway on Needs Ore Point by the Beaulieu River Sailing Club, or further upstream at the Gin's Farm jetty or the Royal Southampton Yacht Club pontoons. Light meals are available.
Gull Island is a bird sanctuary and though not prohibited, landing is not encouraged.
There is always a possibility of finding a vacant mooring closer to Buckler's Hard and the accepted routine here is to take any vacant buoy. You should not, however, leave your RIB unattended and no rafting is allowed. Normally one of the river patrols will visit you and they will know how soon the mooring is likely to be required, or point you in the direction of a more suitable one. Charges are the same as the pile moorings at Buckler's Hard.
Up river to Buckler's Hard
From Needs Ore Point the drying limit of the mud bordering the channel is marked with withies to starboard and a long line of moorings to port. The shore on both sides is low lying and marshy and as you turn north past Gin's Farm and the eastern shore at Exbury Point, the fairway runs clearly between a long line of fore and aft pile moorings.
The depth in this mile long reach poses no problems for most RIBs and although there are no channel marks the line is quite evidently from the moorings on either side. This is a delightful stretch of water where you are not only in undeniably satisfying, unspoiled and beautiful surroundings.
At the end of this long wooded reach the river turns sharply to the west again opposite Gilbury Hard, where there is a long jetty projecting from the eastern shore. This is private. However, although the causeway at Gilbury Hard has long fallen into neglect it is still possible to land here. There is a pleasant spot for a picnic and a footpath through dense woods.
Before the war every visitor to Beaulieu knew this footpath well, for in those days there was no handy shop at Buckler's Hard, whereas Exbury just a short walk from Gilbury had a general store, Post Office and garage. Today it has nothing, but Gilbury Hard is still useful if you wish to visit the lovely woodland gardens of Exbury House, about 10 minutes' walk away. Follow the footpath and the lane and turn left when you reach the main road. The gardens are well worth a visit and are open daily. Exbury House, a large Georgian mansion is not open to the public. During the last war the Beaulieu River was a centre of much military activity as a base for MTBs and landing craft and the storage of Mulberry harbour sections which were built on the beach near Stone Point.
As Buckler's Hard comes into sight you will see the cluster of masts on moorings and several long private pontoons. Take care along this short reach at very low water as there are depths of as little as l.0m LAT and the large marshy area to the north dries extensively.
As the river turns north again past the old dock, and you leave the passenger boat landing quay to port, the depths increase to over 2.0m LAT. Confronted with the pleasing prospect of Buckler's Hard and its cottages to port, the first pile moorings and the Yacht Harbour are ahead, and the edge of the shallow bank extending from the eastern side of the channel is marked with a green No 21 beacon with conical top mark which must be left on your starboard hand.
Mooring and berthing, Buckler's Hard
The most convenient berths are in the Yacht Harbour. You will pay for convenience of being able to stroll ashore and the berths are grabbed fast at busy times.
The much cheaper and more popular alternative is the piles. The first set is only really suitable for larger craft. Smaller RIBs will be more comfortable just upstream of the Yacht Harbour where there is a long run of piles. Charges for the pile moorings vary according to length, although here, at busy times, you will often be lying 7 to 8 boats deep depending on the weather and a total of about 100 visitors can be accommodated. Remember that the tide can run fast, particularly on the short ebb and due allowance should be made for this when manoeuvring.
The only other possibilities are finding a vacant mooring in the next reach of the river upstream, or for smaller, shallower RIBs, anchoring well upriver clear of local moorings, towards Bailey's Hard, although you will probably ground or dry at LW.
At most times during the season you will probably encounter one of the very efficient and helpful Harbour patrols. They can usually sort out most problems and find a suitable berth for your RIB.
Facilities and things to do
Wherever you lie on the Beaulieu River your dues entitle you to use of the excellent shore side facilities at Buckler's Hard, where there are good showers and toilets located in the building backing the old Agamemnon Shipyard. This is now run by Buckler's Hard Boat Builders Ltd. Their services include a chandlery. Diesel and petrol are available alongside the fuel berth on the south end of the yacht harbour from 0800 to 1800 weekends and 0800 to 1900 weekdays.
A short and pleasant walk along the riverside takes you to the Hard in minutes. On the way you will pass the Dukes Bath Bar Club, in the quaint little 18th century building. It is open to crews of visiting yachts.
In the long row of mellow red brick cottages leading up the gentle hillside on the right hand side you will find, first of all, the Master Builder Hotel, with enticing possibilities of a full a la carte menu in its restaurant or something less grand in the cheery Yachtsman's Bar, which does a wide range of buffet meals and has a beer garden too.
Such is the remarkable state of preservation of Buckler's Hard and its environs that you might be forgiven for the impression that you have arrived in the middle of a period film set or a museum. In fact one of the cottages you have just walked past is just that, for the Shipwright's Cottage has been restored to display the living conditions of its 1790s occupants and is part of the excellent Maritime Museum which is the top of the hill. This covers the entire history of shipbuilding at Beaulieu and is open daily during the season from 1000 to 1800.
Near the museum there is a large cafeteria and gift shop and close by, the Buckler's Hard Garage are marine engineers who have a chandlery.
The other main attraction is the impressive National Motor Museum at Beaulieu. This is nearly 2 miles distant but the riverside walk is delightful, through gentle woods bedecked with wild flowers with frequent glimpses of reed beds and quiet stretches of the upper river. The Museum is open daily 1000 to 1800 during the season, the admission charge covers the Palace House, the grounds and the Abbey.
Beaulieu Village is a small but rather busy place on the main road, a shock after the tranquillity of the lower river. There is a hotel and cafe.